The cooking of the lake region is Lombard at its core — butter-rich, lake-fish-centred, and rooted in ingredients that the agricultural hinterland has been producing for centuries. The missoltini (dried agone fish, preserved under salt and bay leaves) is the lake's defining cured product. The risotto al pesce persico (lake perch risotto) is the standard by which every serious restaurant near Como is measured; the correct version is made with freshly caught perch, aged butter, Grana Padano, and nothing else.
For dinner on the water: La Terrazza at Grand Hotel Tremezzo is the lake's finest hotel restaurant — the views across to Bellagio, the lake fish in butter, the Lombard wine list. For something less formally magnificent: Ristorante Silvio in Bellagio, where the family have been cooking lake fish the same way since 1919 and show no signs of changing. Trattoria Lanterna in Cernobbio, tucked into a side street behind Villa d'Este, is the local's answer to all the grand hotel dining.
The wine of the lake region is Lombardian: Franciacorta (the Italian answer to Champagne, made by the traditional method south-east of Como) is the correct aperitivo. For dinner: the Valtellina reds from Nebbiolo grapes grown on the steep granite slopes north of the lake — Sforzato, Inferno, Sassella — are among Italy's most underappreciated wines and are available at the serious hotel wine lists for considerably less than their Barolo equivalents.