Southern Thai cooking is the hottest and most aromatic of Thailand's regional traditions — more turmeric, more fresh chilli, more coconut milk, and more seafood than the central or northern cuisines. The Samui speciality of red curry with blue swimming crab (gang poo) is the dish the island is known for in Thai culinary circles; the best version is available at the Fisherman's Village restaurants in Bophut and at the night market, where the crab arrives in a rich, orange-red curry of considerable depth.
The Fisherman's Village Walking Street in Bophut, which operates on Friday evenings, is the island's finest food market: local vendors with proper Thai street food, the quality significantly above what the tourist beaches produce. Dining on the Rocks at Six Senses is the island's best fine-dining restaurant — nine granite platforms above the Gulf of Thailand, a Thai-contemporary menu that takes southern ingredients seriously, and a wine list that reflects the hotel's general philosophy of considered curation.
For something less formal and memorable for different reasons: the grilled corn from the beach vendors at Chaweng in the morning, eaten while watching the fishing boats come in, is a more honest Koh Samui experience than most hotel breakfasts. The Thai iced coffee (oliang, brewed strong and served over crushed ice with condensed milk) is the morning drink that the island provides better than any other country in the region.