For two decades Dubai imported its restaurants wholesale — a franchise of a Mayfair room, a chef who visits twice a year. The Michelin guide's arrival in 2022 changed the calculation. Tresind Studio, a tasting menu that rethinks Indian cuisine with more ambition than anywhere in London, now holds three stars. Orfali Bros, three Syrian brothers cooking in a strip-mall unit in Wasl, is one of the most exciting tables in the region and books out a month ahead.
At the top end, the depth is remarkable: Ossiano's dining room set into the Atlantis aquarium, Il Ristorante — Niko Romito at the Bulgari, STAY by Yannick Alléno on the Palm, and Zuma in the DIFC, which after fifteen years remains the hardest reservation in the city on a Friday. Book two to three weeks out for anything on this list; hotel concierges can open doors that online systems cannot.
The Emirati food is quieter and easily missed. Al Fanar and Aseelah serve the traditional dishes properly — machboos, the spiced rice and lamb that anchors every family table; harees, slow-cooked wheat and meat; luqaimat, yeasted dumplings in date syrup, which turn up at the end of every meal. Pair it with karak chai from a roadside cafeteria, which is what the city actually drinks, and a date-tasting at Bateel. Alcohol is served throughout licensed hotels and restaurants; during Ramadan, service hours shift and daytime dining moves behind screens, but visitors are accommodated without fuss.